Lord of the Flies
The Cougar MRAP rumbles to a stop. The trailing dust cloud washes over the vehicle temporarily obscuring the outside world to us. The AC is broken and the group stuffed into the armored behemoth is sweating profusely, you can see it soaking through the sleeves and collars of our uniforms. Underneath our vest is worse. I feel it dripping down the back of my pants, not a pleasant feeling.
The gunner is the only one spared, he sits with his head out of the vehicle, a dangerous job, but at least you’re cooler. The one and half hour drive to this location was along a rocky, rutted, “road”; jolting us violently with every foot we move. The Cougars were designed for the paved roads of Iraq not the rock sewn trails of Afghanistan. I’m confident I’ll survive an IED but my back and kidneys may be destroyed by safety.
The purpose for us coming here is a shura an afghan term for gathering or meeting. This shura is honor of opening two schools in the area. Much has been made of the supposed destruction wrought by US forces in the towns and villages but very little is ever said about the good that’s been done.
Just in our operational area we’ve built four schools, numerous wells, water retention walls and various other projects. We’ve also treated over 700 cases in 9 months.
Today though we’ve come for the opening of the schools. We dismount from the vehicles, get security set and head to shura. As I walk across the field I see the school white washed and pristine. A snowball sitting in the brown dirt of the valley and its partner sits about 4 kilometers to the west; easily visible due to the contrast. Part of me wonder if that’s such a good idea as I’m positive it can be seen from the Pakistani mountains 5 k to the east. Easily within range of rockets.
We enter the school and meet the local elders. The elders are the staples of the community. We meet them in order of age and precedence. In the beginning I didn’t realize this but I’ve now become aware of the rigid hierarchy these introductions follow. I shake hands with about 20 older looking men.
Older looking is the correct term here. My internal American age estimator isn’t calibrated for Afghanistan. Several times I’ve met people I thought were 60 years plus and it turns out they were my age 39. It’s a hard knock life here.
Post introductions we tour the school. Entering each classroom and seeing the desks, books, pens and pencils. There’s a small select group of students here, large gatherings are discouraged for security reasons. The ACM often IED them or use suicide bombers. The reverence with which the Afghans treat the school is amazing.
The small group reaches the final room where sitting mats are spread on the concrete floor shaped in a U. It’s packed with the ubiquitous flies found everywhere in Afghanistan and smells of diesel the fuel used to cut the paint. If you have a weak stomach Afghanistan is not the place for you.
I’m placed at the head with the oldest elder. What many Americans fail to realize is that just by being an American soldier you’re honored and revered, that’s why any form of disrespect is such a crushing blow to the Afghans. The men you thought could do no wrong have now insulted you, that’s hard to take for anyone.
We sit down and the senior elder begins to speak. The speaking order is very important too. You speak in the order of your importance. Generally, I’m given the second position. At the beginning of my tour I usually spoke toward the end or at the end.
Now, here’s a little more insight to American vs Afghan ways. Afghans are verbose and like to talk; I mean they really like to talk. So a shura can go for a long time. You’re expected to speak even if you feel that everything’s been said. In America we strive for short concise meetings. In Afghanistan it’s as if the sheer amount of talking wills the things to happen. The more talking the more likely it will happen.
Conversations and meetings in the US are a single thread going from point to point. In Afghanistan it’s a woven rug with muted tones, subtle patterns and held together with an intricate base layer. The pattern you may see in the rug may not be what you think.
Obviously, I don’t speak Pashto so I’ve got to have an interpreter. My preferred method is to have my terp sit next to me and translate in a low voice what being said as they say it. Some prefer to have breaks where the terp translates. I find my method keeps the flow going and makes it more like an actual conversation. I can then participate more actively with gestures and facial expressions.
The groups talks for a long while, drinking chai and then we adjourn to another room for lunch. As I come into the room, I’m hit with dread. It’s covered in flies as is the food. One of my no shit rules is that I NEVER refuse any food or drink given to me by an Afghan. It’s insulting to them. So, I’m going to have to eat.
I do and pay for it two days later with violent vomiting and diarrhea that makes a claymore mine seem like a fire cracker. 10 lbs and 6 bags of IV fluid later I’ll be fine and my relationship with the elders is intact. A small price to pay to good relations.
After lunch we pose for pictures. Again this is a hierarchy, the most important elders get their picture taken with me first. Yes, all of the pictures have me in them. You would think I was the President of the US and not just some dumb ground pounder. They all want a picture with me. This goes on for about 20 minutes and I’m quickly smiled out.
The final event is the students male and female singing the
Afghan National Anthem. A touching
moment. About 100 girls go to this
school every day. A far cry from the
Taliban days. The elders are very happy
about this fact but are concerned that the ACM will try to stop the trend.
We shake more hands and start to move back to our vehicles. I reach my vehicle and prepare for the back pounding patrol back to our FOB. The time bomb of the chow ticking in my stomach but a good day in the history of the Bermel valley.
That's what it's all about!! Sorry about the tummy, needs some Tums??
Reply to this
I think about all that one must endure in a foreign country for the sake of liberty and nothing is more amazing than the amount of education that is derived from the experience. The flies, well that is something I know I too could do without. Maybe we should educate the Afghanistan people about the hazards of flies and supply them with chemicals to decrease the amount of them. Bless you and those with you who travel the road for humanity.
JERSEY ANGEL
Reply to this
Great posting Vampire 6! Feel like I'm there with you.....and appreciate you're willingness to "swallow one for the gipper"....thx for being our eyes and ears over there...if you get to Altamur, say "hi" to my son.....
Reply to this
First let me thank you and your brethren for your service and for the good work you are doing in Afghanistan. From an American citizen I also want to thank you for this insightful view of what is happening on the ground there.
We only have the U.S. news sources for information and very little to nothing is mentioned about the good things our service men and women are doing there. Much is made of the big events or bad things and so most of us here never hear of the good that is coming of our presence there. So when someone such as yourself writes of their experiences on the ground there it gives the ones back home in the U.S. not just another viewpoint but a better understanding of the good we are accomplishing for the Afghan people. This is important because if left to our normal news sources and government we would only see those things that leave us to wonder why we even over there in the first place.
Once again thanks for all you and your brethren go through each day and the sacrifices, both great and small, you make for both your country and for the Afghan people. We shall keep all of you in our prayers until your safe return to your home and families. May God bless you and keep all of you safe.
Reply to this
I want to thank you and Team Vampire for all of the wonderful things you are doing to improve the lives of the Afghan people at such a tremendous cost to yourselves. Stay as safe as you can. Godspeed.
Reply to this
The Thunder Run has linked to this post in the blog post From the Front: 06/09/2009 News and Personal dispatches from the front and the home front.
Reply to this
papa K here to tell you how much I have enjoyed your blog. Keep the faith, watch your back and rock on. We look forward to seeing you this fall or sooner.
SSgt Kowalski
Reply to this
You will be well remembered for a very long time. Be proud.
Congratulations!
Reply to this
You got this site pretty tightly wrapped. S'OK, I just wanted to send you this; http://www.thedailyshow.com/video/index.jhtml?videoId=229029&title=gretchen-peters
I'm neither lefty or righty, I just go with what I believe is true and just. I wanted your take on this 'Gretchen Peters' person. That URL should just cut and paste.
Sorry about the food based illness stuff. But I know what you mean. I've made more friends over food that was supposed to mess with the 'white guy'.
GTG. We buried a young soldier yesterday. I stood formation right behind this boys grandmother. Her cries just ripped me up . . . right now, even mentioning it. I do appreciate what you do and how you go about it. I wish I had words to help her. All I could do is stand, straight and silent, waiting, respectfully, untill she was ready to proceed.
So, yeah, when Gretchen Peters says she wants to get that Mutherfucker, Bin Lauden, you guys come to mind as the right bunch for the job. Hope you get a chance at it.
Illegitimatae non Carborundum
Richard
Reply to this
That's is awesome, good job, I'm sorry your stomache had to take a beating though.
Reply to this
Well done sir, we also serve who have to eat the local food... And yes, NOT doing that is the ultimate insult!
Reply to this
WoW! You RODE that far! In the late 60's the only vehicles outside major cities were either attached to your legs or a donkey's!! I hope you guys really are appreciated. NO ONE that hasn't been there can even imagine what you describe! I saw days that hit 140F and that night would be 22F! A body gets a little stressed going through the heat, the cold or especially a heat range of 100 degrees plus every day! AND we didn't have to wear all the battle rattle you do! (of course I would have killed to trade in my ALICE stuff for the MOLLE gear you have today! Several people if necessary!) "Rattle" WAS a key word then. I honestly wish I were there with you! It would be great to help the Afghans instead of just using them. (we worked for a certain 3 letter org that "sheep-dipped" us into temporary civilians) Thank you for your service, your dedication to the real mission, that of helping not just fighting, and for the the endurance only a few of us back here can understand. I salute you all. We are all "Brothers", indeed. Good luck and God Bless, to all of you. May the REMFs all blow away in a sandstorm!
Paul Andreasen, TSgt, USAF (Ret)
ROMAD, 601 DASC
CCT, 1278th APS
There's no such thing as an Ex-ROMAD)
Reply to this
Forgot one comment! I HAD to learn some Pashto (used to call it PashtU or Pashtun in the south, and in Pakistan) and Urdu, because the interpreters ALWAYS flowered things up, or if they didn't understand or agree, they would simplay change what you said to what they thought! And these were the good guy ones! They are Afghans FIRST, interpreters second!
Again, God Bless and come home safe!
Sta de zer lidu pe hilla (I think!!)
Paul Andreasen, TSgt, USAF (Ret)
ROMAD, 601 DASC
CCT 1278th APS
(There's no such thing as an Ex-ROMAD)
Reply to this
Thanks for the insight into your mission there. If it weren't for people like yourself, we wouldn't get anything more than soundbites. Stay safe
Joe
Reply to this
Sorry about vomiting and diarrhea. I get severe migraines (go the hospital/toradol injection/iv)so i feel your pain.
Hope you are back on track! Thank you and your soldiers again for preserving what we have here!
Reply to this
A very touching story of your day. All of your BLOGs are great. This one just a little more GREATER. Dad
Reply to this
Thank you for the excellent post. I also appreciate hearing about the good being done - there are not enough stories like yours in the media.
You very eloquently express maturity, respect and knowledge and as a US citizen I am very proud to be represented by you and your fellow soldiers.
Stay Safe
jaesea
Reply to this
Keep doing what you do, Brothers. You're getting more done even on your slowest days than some entire brigades (not that I have a particular one in mind). Contrary to what some people seem to think here, you can't just tell the Afghans, "Just fix it." Their fall-back is to say things in English, louder and slower. They don't want to hear that this is a slow process best left to those with patience and cultural understanding. They better learn or we'll all be here for OEF XXVI.
Stay safe.
Reply to this
Hey vamp6 - Your posts stopped coming to me -I re-subscribed. Great post!! Thanks so much for a REAL view of what it's like in Afghanistan. You're always in my prayers. Mary Kay/Calif. Proud Navy Mom
Reply to this
Ahmen!!!
Reply to this
Ok, you're officially my hero! =) The phrase "Who more than self their country loved" comes to mind. You guys amaze me over and over. We don't deserve you. Thank you for everything.
Reply to this
Dr Steven Chu, the U.S. Secretary of Energy and a Nobel prize-winning (ha ha) scientist advised all the world's roofs, buildings, roads, and cars should be painted white as part of efforts to slow global warming:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-1188956/Now-Obamas-administration-agrees-Paint-houses-white-solve-global-warming.html#ixzz0MPHdhzhJ
You boys are ahead of the curve! If the taliban target white infrastructure, then President Barack Hussein Obama II must get his Climate Czar (#12 of 44, to date) to sanction their carbon credits for not focusing on global warming. I understand Algore has climate change curriculum in every language, and we're not talking about the 'weather.' Why bother with the water cycle when we will be like toast in 30 billion years! Glad to see you are doing your part to spread the junk science, errr, Goldman Sachs derivatives.
Also, do you think any type of flies will work for the 'Keeping Up With the Jonesistan Diet' or should I import them from Afghanistan? Clearly, 10 lbs lost in 2 days is worthy of a business plan for an SBA loan. However, saying the people look older than they are is not good PR for your Afghan spa treatments.
Enjoy your sojourn in the mountains.
P.S. Have you ever considered a mail order husband business? Men who love to talk! Ooh La La
Reply to this
If I could have started your IV I would have given you good anti barf meds. You're awesome, hero type one each, and that aren't words enough to thank you.
God bless
Reply to this